Italian fashion rules the world

Disclaimer - I know these photos are pretty bad. Wish I had a polarizing filter, but I don't.





"The French were more sophisticated, more complicated," the Principessa Galitzine suggested in later life. "Whereas the Italians were light-hearted and young. They loved life."

This disposition resulted in clothes that combined ease and luxury - a low-key kind of glamour, as typified in the Principessa’s own invention of wide-legged pajama-style trousers, memorably dubbed "palazzo pants" by fashion maven Diana Vreeland.

While Paris embraced the structured, exaggerated silhouettes of Christian Dior’s new look, Rome was developing a fashion identity of its own. "We broke away from the French," Micol Fontana told fashion trade bible, WWD, in 2000. "The Americans were instrumental in shaping our attitude toward fashion. They were practical and needed clothing they could live in. And we were ready to deliver. We were more informal; our fashion was more linear and more practical. You could wear it on the street and no-one was going to stare at you."

3-29-2009

Leather boots seem to be just as much a part of the Italian culture as pizza. It's doubtful there are many Italian PETA supporters, and you can spot an Italian woman simply by her boots and coat. Fur coats are ubiquitous in Italy. Everyone has one.

I love the above quote about Italian light-heartedness. This sums up why I love Italy. The Italians know how to live the good life and above all how to have a good time, but they're not pretentious and are sophisticated without being over the top.

One fashion trend I immediately noticed upon arrival was the python print. Guess who (metaphorically) walked down the aisle in authentic python stilettos? Yours truly. At first I was really proud of myself for being so trendy, but by now I am feeling unoriginal and very mainstream. Good thing Americans are 6 months behind Europe's fashion trends, or so I've heard. By now the snake skin leather boots are becoming last season and the new collections are starting to hit the window displays.

I have noticed the Italians are wearing a kind of boot that looks like a cross between a cowboy boot and a classic Italian style pointed toe boot. Fantastic. I really like the ankle cut version too. The girls are wearing the ankle cowboy boot with shorts. LOVE IT. They also look fantastic over jeans. I definitely want a pair.

Agretti

Agretti. I forgot to mention this vegetable. I love it, but it's a pain to clean. I have never even seen this stuff before, it tastes like straws of spinach. The texture is great and it crunches a bit in your mouth.

Album per ritagli

3-28-2009

I am exhausted. I worked every morning this week and did not get to bed early. Peter is sick and the girls are also feeling a little under the weather. Everyone has a cold. Camilla does not let them shower or go to the swimming pool if they are sick. I think the shower thing is a little strange. I can understand not washing the hair and not going to the pool, but an entire week is a long time to go without bathing. Camilla is very tired because Peter has not been sleeping at night, so I've been working a little harder than usual it seems.

Yesterday the girls took Camilla's photos and made her scrapbooks (album per ritagli). I don't know if Camilla was too thrilled with them sticking all her precious photos in a book, but she seemed not to mind too much. I don't argue with the children. If they want to do something that I think might be a problem, I warn them and then let the mother deal with the issue. This way the children like me better and there are no power struggles. It's my job to make sure the toys are put away, that they have a bath, to dress them and to keep them happy. I avoid all arguments like the plague.

I am actually avoiding the plague. Peter has had a fever for three days and he is absolutely miserable. He won't eat, he can't sleep ... I am sure I am going to get whatever sickness he has. I am constantly washing my hands and I am drinking lots of OJ. However, today I woke up and felt the sickness in the back of my throat and nose. GREAT. It seems like I have been sick ever since I got here.

This morning I spent some money. I know, I know .... but I was feeling miserable and I just needed to buy some things. I also got a haircut. I went to the Aveda salon by Piazza de Spagna. I love my new haircut so much. It was a great salon and I just walked right in with no problem. I love being in a big city. These are the times when I don't miss Gainesville a bit. I explained to the stylist that I was trying to grow my hair out, but that I needed her to shape the cut. She told me that my face is suited for short hair and that if I grow my hair long, I should keep short layers in the front. Good tip.

I also bought a few blouses and a light, linen jacket. The washing machine here is rough on my clothes and all of them are looking worn out. I can't stand this. Also, I needed lightweight, long sleeve shirts for Morocco because I need to respect the culture and cover my arms and legs. This is also for my own protection, I guess. So, I had a good day. :)

I want to say a few words about Federico. I never talk about him. Mainly because he is rarely home. He travels very frequently for work and when he does come home during the week, he arrives around 9 p.m. He is a very nice man and at first I thought that he really just has to work a lot, but now I wonder if he likes to be away. The gender roles are much more defined in Italy than in the US. It is very rare for me to see Federico make any attempt at domesticity. He never cooks, he does not clean, he is different with the babies ... Sometimes I think he's like a fourth child. Hahaha. This seems typical of upper class Italian family units. I like the American family life more because I like to see a man participate in the home environment. I like that Nick cooks dinner, goes to the grocery store and comes home at 5 p.m.

The Pantheon and Raphael's muse

3-24-2009

Camilla thinks I understand absolutely no Italian, but I understand most of what the conversation entails. I am using this to my advantage. I take it we are going to Tuscany for Easter. The girls have a week vacation from school for the holiday. I have to say, I'm not thrilled. This means another week with no Internet and nothing to do. I absolutely plan to visit Siena this time. I really should be happier about getting the chance to spend a week in Tuscany during the spring, but that means less time in Rome, and ...

Today I went just about everywhere in Rome. I spent the morning at the Pantheon and Campo de Fiori. Then I walked to Piazza Venezia and ate lunch at the cafe above the Campidoglio. There is a pretty good view of Rome from this rooftop bar. I keep going to the same spots in Rome. I love these three places so much, the Campidoglio, the Pantheon and Campo de Fiori. Piazza della Rotunda (the piazza containing the Pantheon) according to my guidebook is, "... worthy of Felinni. Half-naked beauties, pickpockets, street hawkers, introverts, extroverts, freaks and oddities of every ilk heap abuse on each other in an irresistible spontaneous commedia dell'arte." This statement is so true. This piazza has a life of its own.

Henry James wrote the following letter to his sister in 1869 regarding the Pantheon:

By far the most beautiful piece of ancestry in Rome is that simple and unutterable Pantheon to which I repeated my devotions yesterday afternoon. It makes you profoundly regret that you are not a pagan suckled in the creed outworn that produced it. It's the most conclusive example I have yet seen of the sublime. Imagine simply a vast cupola with its drum, set directly on the earth and fronted with a porch of columns and a triangular summit: the interior lighted by a hole in the apex of the alters. The effect is the very delicacy of grandeur - and more worshipful to my perception than the most mysterious and aspiring Gothic. St. Peter's, beside it, is absurdly vulgar.

I love this description of the building, but the Pantheon has not always been so loved. In the middle ages it was almost destroyed due to its pagan heritage. It was transformed into a christian church in the seventh century, but apparently there was this belief that the building was cursed and inhabited by satan. During the Renaissance the building regained its rightful place in the "pantheon" of Roman architecture and when Raphael chose to be buried there in 1520 instead of at the Vatican "its fame as a paradigm of classical perfection was symbolically reconfirmed."

After lunch I headed to Piazza Barberini because I wanted to visit Palazzo Barberini. This is where Raphael's painting of La Fornarina hangs. I don't know why I am fascinated by Raphael and his mistress, but I just am. La Fornarina was simply a baker's daughter and supposedly Raphael was lovesick for her. His painting has been met with much disdain by some prudish individuals. I, however, LOVE this painting. The details are exquisite. Raphael signed his name in a bright blue band around the beautie's arm and she is wearing a delicate ring above the knuckle on one of her fingers. I just love the idea of an artist painting a portrait of his great love. It's so romantic.

Piazza Barberini itself has a wonderful story to tell. It's not a very beautiful piazza, but many literary figures and artists have stayed there. My guidebook says "its literary history is second only to that of Piazza di Spagna. Among the many authors who resided in the square were Louisa May Alcott, Margaret Fuller, Hans Christian Anderson and Nathaniel Hawthorne." Also Friderich Nietzche stayed in this square for some time. It's pretty cool to think of all the people who have walked the streets of Rome.

After a full day of wonderful sightseeing I headed back to Camilla for an evening of hard labor. Ugh. I arrived at the house and immediately picked up a heap of toys and escorted Ludovica and her friend Daria to a birthday party. I walked back from the party and Camilla informed me that I would be taking Anna and Pietro to play at her friend's house who lives close to Borghese. OK. The friend has an American au pair and it was nice to spend time chatting in English. There were two other babies there, Elena and Luigi. The children threw toys all over the place. I am so tired of cleaning up toys. I HATE TOYS. This house made me appreciate Camilla's home. The toys there were all pushed to the side in a giant pile and there was no organization. This made it more difficult to clean up. Also, the family had three dogs and the front terrace reeked of wet dog. GROSS!

Tonight we talk art

3-21-3009

Just after my venting post, I discovered a Bernd and Hilla Becher book in Camilla's library. Renewed faith. She returned from the party with Anna. I gave the children a bath and we sat down for dinner. We began to talk about art and art history. Camilla is the most fantastic person to talk about art with because she has a real sense of the history of art. She told me about the Giotto exhibit and about how much she loves that period and the beginning of the traditional Italian style. She told me it can be difficult to understand this art if you are not aware of the old symbolism. She explained some of the details and how the painters mixed pigments ...

I asked her about the Bernd and Hilla Becher book and told her that their son was a professor of mine in college. She told me she loved this work and purchased this book when she visited MOMA in NYC. What excellent taste? She went to MOMA and bought Cooling Towers by Hilla and Bernd Becher! I was floored. This work is beautiful, but it's not something usual. I mean ... I think you have to have sophisticated taste to like this work. She told me that she loved MOMA more than The Met, specifically the photo section. We talked about other contemporary artists and photographers we enjoy. Sigh ... This woman is wonderful.

This would be me venting

3-21-2009

I must preface this post with the following ... Camilla is a very kind woman. She has excellent intuition and she has always treated me with the utmost respect. Generally, I like my job here and I am happy. It is doubtful that I would like any au pair position more than this one and I am glad to have found such good people here in Italy. That being said ... My skin is broken out and I can't stop eating. These are clear signs that shark week is right around the corner, and hasn't PMS come to mean "instinctual bitching?"

I chose to do this. I could be working at a career worthy job in the USA, but I wanted to see the world and reap the benefits of all that this experience has to offer. However, I long for home and my friends and family. I am tired of looking at Camilla's dishes and cleaning her kitchen. I want my own kitchen back and I want to wash my own damn dishes. I am role playing here. I play this role of nanny, house maid. I want to be myself again.

Camilla says I don't have to work in the mornings except on rare occasions. So, naturally I don't work in the mornings, but I sense this weird vibe that she thinks I sleep too much, or that she really would like me to help in the mornings. I have asked her to tell me if she needs me to wake early several times. I have asked her to knock on my door if something comes up and she needs an extra hand. Because of this I always sleep with some pending anxiety here. Like I didn't study for a test, or I am sleeping through class. I only sleep well when the family is away.

Sometimes, I sense that Camilla thinks I am lazy. Well, she doesn't see a lot of the things I do. Also, a lot of times I start to pick up dishes or to clean something and she tells me to stop because she wants to do it. If she is aggravated or tired, I think she takes it out on me. For example, this afternoon she took Anna to a birthday party. She was getting her ready for the party and she says to me, "You never brush the hair." What? Umm, I quite frequently brush their hair. It was Saturday morning and I forgot. I dressed all three children and played with them all day. I made them lunch, read books with Anna, cleaned up toys, changed dirty diapers ... No one told me there was a party to attend. Camilla would have rebrushed Anna's hair before the party if I had brushed it.

Yesterday Camilla complained that I put away the toys haphazardly. Usually I put the toys away nicely. I even try to arrange them so they look cute. Sometimes there is not a lot of time to put away toys before dinner. They play right up until dinner time and then go to bed right after. Camilla lectured me on how the toys must be organized because the children play better if the toys are always put in the same place. OK, she has a point ... Camilla says thank you a lot. It's not that she's unappreciative or mean. I just have to get it out, so I don't have pent up agression.

Elena, the young girl who cleans in the mornings, seems to hate me. She is always giving me some weird look. I don't work in the mornings or early afternoon. That's her shift, so she never sees me do much. Some mornings I try to help her, so she'll stop with the attitude. I put the clothes out on the line, or I load and unload the dishwasher. I am tired of this as well. Elena thinks I'm a stupid American. I can sense her resentment.

I rarely talk to Nick. We're in touch, but I never get to talk or chat with him for longer than 10 minutes it seems. This is starting to become annoying. I miss him. I miss our home and our dog. If I didn't have the Morocco trip and my Italian class to look forward to, it would be a lot easier to give up.

Diet changing experience

3-20-2009

It is a cold , gray day in Rome and I am enjoying some much needed down time. I locked myself in my room this morning and don't plan to come out until 3 or 4 p.m. I have to work all day tomorrow and it's Saturday, but this is only fair considering I've enjoyed three long weekends in a row. I hope I can take the babies to Villa Borghese or Villa Glori tomorrow. The forecast says sunny and I don't want to be disappointed.

The past two days Lorenzo and Francesco have come to play in the afternoon. It has been utter chaos. I leave them alone until the boys leave and then pick up after the mayhem. Toys are strewn every which way and the house is basically destroyed. I am happy there will be no guests today. :o)

This experience has changed me. I mean I will take so many things from this that will last throughout my life. For example, the cooking. I have learned how to make artichokes, roasted red peppers, lentil/vegetable soup, pasta carbonara, Italian meat balls (polpette), homemade tomato sauce ... Also, just the food in general ... I hope I can find these things when I get home. I LOVE the fresh prosciutto and mozzarella. I simply can't stand to eat without adding Parmesan cheese and olive oil to my food, and the balsamic vinegar is the best ever.

I worry that I just won't find these things in the US and if I do, they will be overpriced. And, the greens ... I love this vegetable called Finocchi. (Is this fennel?) It is spicy and delicious. The Italians eat the base of this vegetable raw with only olive oil and salt. The arugula here is the best arugula I have ever tasted! I also love this other type of lettuce the Italians call songino (lamb's lettuce). It is sweet and has a wonderful texture. And I definitely know what good olive oil is now. Don't even get me started on the wine ... ;) 

p.s. Nespresso is the way to go when it comes to coffee and I will promptly purchase a Nespresso machine when I return home. 

Pizza by candlelight

3-17-2009

Today I woke early and went into Rome. Piazza del Campidoglio is my new favorite hangout. It's a restful haven in the middle of the city. I like to watch people as they meander through the forum and the views are absolutely spectacular. So, I go here often.

This afternoon I took the babies to Villa Glori. I had not yet been. The park is no Borghese, but it is beautiful and there is a swimming pool and a really nice playground there. I played with Pietro while Ludovica and Anna climbed on the jungle gym. It was really cute. I like this kinda stuff. Camilla picked Ludovica up from the park and took her to the catholic class. She has to meet with Anna's teacher. Not surprised.

Tonight Camilla made pizza. This is the first time she has made pizza since I've been here. Apparently it is family tradition to eat pizza by candlelight. I love this tradition. I can't wait to steal it and make it my own. The thought of this made me really miss Nick.

Umm, I just realized that Camilla might read my blog. Hmm. I have the link listed under my profile in gmail. How awful? I really hope she does not read. Aaahhh.

Classic and Baroque ...

3-13-2009

Ludovica is Classic and Anna is Baroque. Ludovica has slightly curly hair and sometimes the curls frame her face so perfectly she looks like a miniature Roman statue. Ludovica is reserved and ultra feminine. She’s very lady like and has a gentle spirit. She’s going to grow up and wear black slacks and collared shirts, long silk dresses and sweaters. Anna is a wild child and has already discovered her sexuality. She constantly accessorizes her outfits and desperately wants to stand out. She’s going to grow up and wear stilettos and pink leopard print pants. No doubt.

I bonded with Anna, finally. I don’t know exactly how or when this happened. She was such a struggle at first. We became friends somewhere between dress up and twister. These children constantly amaze me. They see things so differently than adults and I wonder when I stopped thinking like a child. Last night at dinner Ludovica spouted, “This is very hot.” I was amazed. The English is sinking in. Camilla and I applauded her and Anna began to recite every English word she knew. We also cheered her on. Camilla was so happy. At dinner Ludovica asked her mother how long I would be staying with them. Camilla sort of dodged this question. Ludovica then asked if all the au pairs could please be American. I felt so happy. I had a surge of patriotism and felt like I had represented my country well. I am the first au pair. They know that it is a temporary situation, but it’s going to be difficult when I go. This is probably why Camilla asked me to stay as long as possible. When I put the girls to bed last night Anna looked at me and said, “Ti amo, Tess.” I smiled big and kissed her cheek.

I really like my job here. As long as I don’t have to go to Cortina. Haha. I like to play with the kids and Peter is so adorable. I am starting to realize how much I want a family of my own. I am really maternal with Peter. I like bath time because I love the feeling of the water against his baby soft skin. I love when he hugs me or shows affection. It is adorable. And when he wants to cuddle it feels so good. I can’t describe the sensation; he nestles in your crevasses. 

The family is going to Bibbiano tonight, so I will have the weekend to myself again. I’m not sure what I’m going to do. I still haven’t made it to Pompeii, but I’m kind of waiting for a travel buddy. I am lying on my blanket in Borghese, listening to The Moldy Peaches writing this post.

Sometimes I never want to leave Rome and other times I am so homesick I could pack my bags and leave immediately. I constantly dream of buying an apartment in Rome and finding work here. I have talked to Federico about distributing olive oil and wine in the US. I think he thinks I could never pull this off, but he humors me. I wonder if I could convince Nick’s dad to help me do this. I’m not sure how wine would mix with ice cream, but … I want to have an excuse to travel to Italy. Also, Giovanni owns a winery and travels to the US often to meet with restaurant and hotel owners who buy his wine. Federico does not ship to the US now. Everyone I have met who has a winery has money, so it must be lucrative.

Hotel Miami

3-11-2009

My Italian course finally started today. The school is on Via Nazionale and it's located in the same building as Hotel Miami. How fitting? I moved to Rome to visit Hotel Miami everyday. The class was great and I love the teacher. He is so cute. 

After the class, I returned home. I am spending way too much time on facebook and the Internet. I have decided that I really want to do something with all the photos I am taking. I was just playing around, but now it's serious. So, I am going to up the ante and go out with my camera instead of playing on the computer so much. I have to at least try. 

Camilla gave me an odd chore today. I had to take Peter to a terrace playground and give him and the other babies an English lesson. OK, fine by me. I spent the afternoon singing, "head, shoulders, knees and toes." How do you give an English lesson to a baby? I had the luxury of wheeling him home in the rain with no umbrella. He didn't mind the rain, and I guess it wasn't so bad. 

Camilla's grandmother was American. She makes the oddest dishes and tells me they are American simply because it was her grandmother's recipe. However, these dishes don't seem very American. What is American food anyway? Hot dogs and hamburgers. It is American to cook ethnic food. 

Shutter happy ...

3-10-2009

Rome is beautiful this week. Yesterday I went to the gardens and today I plan to do the same. I am enjoying this weather. Work is so relaxed in Rome and the days are getting longer. I dressed Peter in a short sleeve polo shirt and white tennis shoes today. So cute. Camilla took him to Borghese and that's where I'm headed next.

I reconnected with an old friend this week. I'm happy about that. However, I doubt we'll ever be the friends we once were. We'll see. I seem to think we should pick up right where we left off, but ...

I returned from the gardens. Camilla told me I did not need to start work until 4 p.m., but when I arrived the girls immediately demanded my attention. I have really bonded with them. I feel close to them now. Anna has started to give me small tokens of her affection. This makes me really happy. She has given me stickers, drawings and a key chain. Also, she wrote me an apology letter once after she hit me all on her own. Every time she gives me something, she says "brava ragazza" like she is my teacher or something.

The girls have become fascinated with my iPod. Ever since I googled Hello Kitty on the thing they grab it every chance they can get. Camilla likes that they google things on the Internet, so I let them play. They spent time in my room today looking through all my clothes and listening to music. They love all things girls and we play dress up. I showed them The Satorialist blog and we spent at least an hour evaluating everyone's outfits.

Camilla told me that the girls speak Italian to me like I speak Italian, with an American accent and everything. This is funny (and awful) because I speak English to Camilla the way she speaks to me. I always use the present tense and sometimes speak to her with an Italian accent. The accent is unintentional. It just happens. However, I did not dare confess this to her.

I have become obsessed with taking pictures. I have hundreds of photos of random people and beautiful spots in Rome. I can't leave the apartment without my camera. If I don't have the camera and I see something to photograph, I become upset to the point of tears. Now that spring is here I am completely shutter happy. I should publish a book and The Satorialist needs to hire me.

No boys allowed!

3-7-2009

It was a beautiful, sunny day in Rome. Also I was free today. I didn't have to work yesterday either and tomorrow no work as well! How did this happen two weekends in a row? I met Sarah this morning and we spent the day together. We basically just walked around and talked.

We roamed the streets surrounding Piazza Venezia and eventually made our way to Trastevere. We bought gelato in Piazza Santa Maria de Trastevere and walked around the neighborhood. I found the cutest house slippers made out of felt. They were shaped to look like little mice and so colorful, but they were really for children and so they didn't have my size. I was so bummed.

After Trastevere we went to Campo de Fiori. Sarah and I really just spent the day meandering in and out of shops. The plan was to catch a train back to Frascati and meet Snae for dinner and wine. We missed our 6 o'clock train to Frascati and I began to think we wouldn't make the 7 o'clock train either. I decided to pass on dinner and parted ways with Sarah. I took myself to a pizzeria for supper. I was starving.

It is safe to say that Rome has gotten under my skin. I love this city. Sometimes I walk the streets and start to cry because I feel it is so beautiful. I think this is so cheesy, but it's true. This happened to me tonight when I was walking from the Pantheon and saw a grotto painting of the mother and child. If women are revered anywhere in the world, it is in Italy. Speaking of reverence for women, tomorrow is international women's day. Of course, I have only ever known Italians to celebrate this holiday. I found this info online ----

Festa della Donna (International Women's Day) -- March 8: In Ancient Roman times, the year ended with February, and, in fact the Latin name of that month, Ferbruarius Mensis, meant something like "month of cleansing or finishing up" in preparation for the new year. February was followed by several intercalary days to get the calendar back on track, and then the new year began on March 1, which was also the first day of spring (primo vere). March 8 was one of the first of the springtime festae, a day sacred to Ariadne, whom Thesius had abandoned on the Island of Naxos after promising to marry her if she helped him slay her father's pet Minotaur. Seduced and abandoned, she was a prototype for ancient Mediterranean womanhood. She later married Bacchus, but that was a whole new adventure.

Before the Second World War, Women's Day had been celebrated on different days in early March in several Italian cities. In 1945, the Union of Italian Women decided to hold all celebrations and commemorations on March 8. However appropriate it would have been, they didn't have Ariadne in mind. In fact they were memorializing two events outside of Italy: a March 8, 1857, strike by women garment workers in New York, which led to the formation two years later of the first women's union in the United States, and a strike by Russian women calling for "bread and peace" on March 8, 1917 (February 23 on the old Russian calendar but March 8 in the rest of the world.)

Authorities don't agree how or why, but the custom started in Italy -- some sources say in Rome in 1946 -- of men giving their wives, mothers, daughters, and other women friends sprigs of bright yellow Mimosa flowers on March 8. Women have since also started to give Mimosa to each other. The flowers are intended as a sign of respect for the women and also an expression of solidarity with the women in their support for oppressed women worldwide. This mild year some Mimosa trees in Rome were already in bloom at the end of January, so there may not be much left by March 8. Other yellow flowers also carry the sentiment, if you can't find Mimosa.

Yellow Mimosa flowers are everywhere in Rome and spring is in the air. It was quite warm today and tomorrow should be beautiful weather as well. Of course Mother Earth granted beautiful, warm weather in Rome for Festa della Donna! Hehe. Men in Italy revere woman. Yes, the stereotype is true. It might also be true that Italian men are generally womanizers (I wouldn't know). As a woman, I enjoy this reverence. Every time I take a taxi, the taxi driver tells me I am beautiful. Tonight at the pizzeria, the man passed my tray over the counter, winked at me and said, "Carina." Talk about an ego boost. This happens all the time in Italy. It's like a man tells you you are beautiful and you just say, "Yeah, yeah. I know."

Tomorrow I plan to wake early and head to Trastevere for the Porte Portese market. I don't think I'll buy anything necessarily, but I always enjoy a market. After that I plan to lounge at the Borghese Gardens all day. I might venture to La Villa Glori. This is another garden in Rome within the Parioli district. I hear it's beautiful and someone told me there are pony rentals there. How strange? I dunno, I just want to bring a blanket and soak up some sun. I really hope tomorrow is as beautiful as it was today.

Not a lot going on

3-5-2009

The past few days have been a blur. Today is Thursday and I have not ventured into Rome at all this week. I know it is a waste, but I am tired, broke and the weather is really bad. It rains everyday in Rome. There are, however, signs that spring is looming in the near future. Some trees are beginning to flower and the air is warming.

Tuesday I took Ludovica to her Catholic class. The class is held at an elderly woman’s apartment. This apartment is by far the most fantastic, eccentric home I have visited in Italy (and I have seen some really nice homes). The place was stunning. Amazing, very old paintings on the walls, huge open spaces and fantastic antiques. I am no longer surprised to enter a fabulous Italian apartment. I think I would be more surprised to see something very common. Turns out the apartment belongs to Shelia’s aunt. Shelia is Mrs. X, mother to Francesco and Lorenzo.

Yesterday was very relaxed. Actually this entire week has almost seemed like a vacation compared to Cortina. I fetched the girls from school at 4:30 p.m. yesterday and brought them home. Of course they wanted to watch television immediately. Ludovica had to finish homework. I wanted to let her watch TV, but I knew Federico would be mad when he came home if she didn’t finish compiti (homework). So, I made her complete her Italian assignment, which was to write about what they did at school during the month of February.

Today, I have to pick the girls up at Shelia’s apartment at 5 p.m. and catch bus 926 to the swimming lesson. Ugh! I don’t know where Shelia lives and I am tired of finding new places. It shouldn’t be so bad. After navigating the streets of Rome with two small children, I feel like I can do anything.

This weekend should be fantastic. I have Friday, Saturday and Sunday free and the apartment all to myself. The family is traveling with Camilla’s parents to Tuscany and she asked if I preferred to stay home. My answer was, “Yes. Please.” I have plans to go wine tasting with Sarah and Snae in Frascati on Saturday. They live in Frascati and it’s supposedly a famous wine town 30 minutes outside of Rome. On Sunday I am taking a day tour to Naples and Pompeii. I am excited about that! Friday I will consult Roma c’e to see what there is to do. Anything free will be good.

The Internet at the house keeps going down in the mornings. This is a major bummer. What could be the problem? It’s probably the rainy weather. I get really anxious when there is no Internet. I get sick worrying that it will never return. Camilla and Federico use some open network from one of the surrounding buildings. This is worrisome.

Staying in ...

3-3-2009

I cannot believe it is already March. My Italian school has been postponed until the 16th because they did not have enough applicants for the beginner’s course. I was really bummed about this. I called the school to talk with the coordinator who assured me the class will begin on the 16th.

The past two days I have been extremely lethargic and very hungry. I have a ravenous appetite, kinda bizarre. Yesterday I did not have to begin work until 4:30 and today I pick the girls up from their aunt’s house at 5:30. I have to take Ludovica to her Catholic class today. I have never been there, so I hope it is not difficult to find. Yesterday I took the girls to their swimming lesson, came home, fed them dinner and then bed. Not so bad.

I wonder why I am so exhausted. Probably from the busy weekend. It’s bad weather here too. Rainy and cold. The sun seems to be poking through the clouds for the first time in two days. I did not leave the apartment the past two days except to escort the girls. I slept in, did my laundry and cleaned my room. Probably I am wasting this time, but I am so tired and also need to save money.

Italian treasures, Sistine Secrets and gelato for dinner

3-2-2009

I had the most fabulous weekend of my entire life. No joke. It makes the hard work in Cortina worth while. Saturday morning I traveled back to Rome. It was an eight hour journey. I arrived at Rome's Termini station an 4 p.m. I promptly bought a copy of Roma c'e and took a taxi to the apartment. I unpacked and put a frozen pizza in the oven. Then, I consulted the magazine to make some plans for Saturday night. I LOVE ROMA C'E!!!

Through the magazine I learned of a film club and theatre called The Grauco Film Club. The club projects films in their original language and it just so happened there was a Vincent Minnelli marathon Saturday night. I'm not a huge Minnelli fan or anything, but I do love Judy Garland and at 7 p.m. The Clock was playing. I studied my map to learn where the theatre was located. I had no idea how to get there. This was really challenging. Somehow I managed to find the theatre. The street it's on is a little obscure side street called via perugia. It was very difficult to find.

I arrived at the theatre only to learn that the film would be in Italian. There was a charming elderly couple who run the theatre. It is a beautiful, intimate movie theatre and I was truly taken my the space. The man told me that they always try to play the films in their original language, but this particular film does not exist in English here in Italy. He said if no one else arrives, I can have my pick of which film to watch. What a wonderful compromise! Some time passed and no one showed, so I chose a film from his list. I chose to watch a movie called Away from Her. The man seemed very pleased by my selection and said this was a beautiful film.

Just as I was entering the theater another man arrived for the Minnelli film. The elderly man told him he would have to watch the film I chose and the man stayed anyway. Away from Her was a gorgeous film about a man dealing with his aging wife's dementia. Sounds depressing, huh? Yes it was sad, but truly picturesque and the dialogue was smart and witty. I recommend it to anyone. A beautiful love story.

After the film I went home and straight to bed. The next morning I slept late and planned to meet a friend, Sarah for the first time. Sarah is from Michigan and lives 30 minutes by train from Rome. Well ... she missed her first two trains into town and so I headed to an antique market without her. I learned about the market from Roma C'e of course. It was in Piazza Mazzini. A charming little market in a circular square full of gorgeous Italian antiques and collectibles. I wanted to buy everything!

This market was unlike the other markets I have been to in Rome. For example, The Porte Portese ... ummm ... not exactly picturesque. I had to contain myself. The furniture was so beautiful and there were tents full of very expensive antique silver. GORGEOUS! I had to buy something. I bought two very small paintings, a silver angel plaque, and a crystal apple sauce maker. I only spent eighty euro. I bargained well. One of my paintings is from 1920. The other is from 1890!!!!! YIPPEE! The sauce maker was only two euro. A steal! I use this tool to make apple sauce for Pietro all the time. I love how the Italians eat and prepare food. Everything is fresh.

I can't spend any more money. What is my problem? Just as I was leaving the market Sarah called me to say she finally arrived to Rome. I headed to Piazza Venezia to meet her. She was with another friend, Snae. Snae is Icelandic. I loved her. She has a wonderful sense of humor and I laughed with her all evening long. We met and walked to the Campidolgio. This is a piazza designed by Michelangelo that overlooks the Roman Forum. I believe it was the first planned piazza in Rome. I love this place. The views of the Forum are spectacular. Afterwards, we headed to the Pantheon. Sarah had not yet seen the Pantheon. We chatted there for a while and then headed to via del corso. Sarah needed to buy some clothes. She shopped at Zara and H&M while Snae and I chatted.

I left the girls at 7:30 p.m. I wanted to attend a book signing and lecture on the new bestselling book, Sistine Secrets: Michelangelo's Forbidden Messages in the Heart of the Vatican. The book was written by two Jewish men who are revealing some hidden findings within Michelangelo's most famous works of art. It was located in an English play house in Rome in a piazza close to Piazza Navona called Piazza Montevecchio. I arrived to the lecture to find free dinner. Fantastico! There was couscous and lentils. What is it with Italians and lentils? The lecture was also free and it was fascinating. I was so happy to be in a room full of English speakers. At first I was skeptical, but I was won over by the presentation and I believe their findings to be true.

The man presenting the lecture was Roy Doliner. He has lived in Rome for some time and knew Pope John Paul II personally. He told some stories about the Pope. His coauthor, Rabbi Blech, blessed the Pope before he died, no joke! The Pope was blessed in the Jewish tradition, who knew? Roy Doliner works as a guide and docent at the Vatican. He interprets paintings for the blind and deaf. He also interprets the christian symbolism to Jewish people who tour the museums. He has given tours of the Vatican to the secret service and has been given a private tour of the White House! Doliner is American. Madonna took him to lunch when she was in Rome and Mel Gibson asked him to be a consultant in his film, The Passion. Doliner declined the Mel Gibson request. He is Jewish after all! Silly Mel Gibson ....

The book emphasizes Michelangelo's fascination with the Jewish faith and Michelangelo's desire for a merging or coexistence between the Christians and the Jews. One of his findings (there are many) within Michelangelo's painting of the Sistine Chapel is the depiction of the tree of life. Michelangelo's portrayal is not the typical apple tree, however he painted a fig tree. In the Talmud, the tree is a fig tree and not an apple tree. Also, both Adam and Eve are taking part in the eating of the fruit. Eve is not solely to blame. This is also in accordance with the Jewish tradition. The serpent is not simply a snake, but is half man, also found within the Jewish teachings. The authors believe that Michelangelo studied Judaism while at the court of Lorenzo Medici in Florence. The book also points out many stabs at Pope Julius II. Apparently Michelangelo was angry with the Pope! I wanted to buy the book, but I have spent too much this weekend and I already have two books on Rome to read. I'll pick up a copy later. The lecture ended at 10:30. I stopped to buy a gelato. One scoop raspberry, one scoop cappuccino. Mmmmm!